new years eve

slept a lot yesterday. then slept all night. woke up feeling fine. funny, that when you’re not feeling quite right, it’s hard to say exactly what is wrong and how much is wrong. but when you are feeling fine, it is definitive. i felt fine. we got up and went on our little excursion to the mountains. we made a couple of stops along the road, to “take pictures” but were met by many jewelry salesmen. “berber” was the buzz word. everything was berber. berber jewelry. berber carpets, berber villages. glad that they figured out the key sales words. we were driving along a river, through the valley up higher and higher. there were houses across the river that had little rope bridges for access. people herding goats wearing traditional garb. we got to the berber village and was guided up the path to the waterfalls. it was beautiful and the air was clear. our guide was very attentive, helping us up the rocks. he scampered up and down like a mountain goat. he grew up in the village so had been playing on the rocks his whole life. we bought a couple of souvenirs, but my family criticized my weak bargaining skills. i paid too much, but supported the local economy. anyway, a couple of euros too much is nothing to us and much to them. driving into marrakech, we could see the walls of the city surrounding palms of the large park on the south. it was quite impressive.

it is new years eve and we have a special dinner at the riad. we are all sitting on the roof deck having a mint tea and the staff seems all excited setting up for the party. the musicians are coming in and 2 have just started playing. it started off sounding like a bass and a drum, but are traditional instruments. they sound great! strains of ali farka toure.

real moroccan experience

we were planning on going out of town today to a nearby beautiful valley. even though it is not as intense here as i had expected, the very dense city, with pollution and throngs of people and traffic are making me feel a bit closed in. so our day trip seemed a nice change. unfortunately, i had a real moroccan experience last night. something in our deep fried seafood dinner did not agree with me and i will be staying close to the facilities today. normally my stomach is made of iron. luckily i was the only one affected and seem to be recovering. the manager here in the riad suggested an herbal tea for a remedy. for plain stomach ache – a tea made of cumin, thyme and verveine (lemon verbena) served hot or cold. wow – spicy and medicinal tasting. for sleeping – just cumin in hot water. these are the moroccan remedies. my theory is that the cumin just kills everything bad. that’s why they add it to so many foods too. my sister yelled at me over email for being so stupid as to eat from the market stands. she said that hepatitis was rife and there were lines of people in hospitals waiting for liver transplants. she’s a dr, so she sees those things. i actually had been hesitant at first to the idea of eating in the market stands, but the guide books said you should try it and there were legions of western tourists doing it.

touring around

our hotel room has one window with a shutter that can open a keyhole shape to make the room feel very moroccan. we look out over a very busy road, and though the window is pretty well sealed, we can hear some traffic. we hear the motorbikes, the cars and the donkeys clip clopping by. it adds to the atmosphere. unfortunately, the air is quite polluted, which adds a different sort atmosphere. yesterday we let jj sleep and we didn’t get out until 12:30. today we got her up at 9:30 to join us for breakfast on the roof terrace. we were trying to plan out the rest of our stay here and book some day trips. we were hoping to get a much earlier start to our day, but by the time we finished, it was 11:30. oh well. that’s just us. we went to the “saadian tombs” which is a sacred burial building and grounds that had been forgotten to the world behind its walls. it was very crowded. there was a line to see the most beautiful room, but after waiting for half an hour, we gave up. we then got a horse drawn buggy (much desired by jj) which took us to the “ville nouvelle” (new town). it had been written up as a sort of “haussmann” styled area of town, built by the colonial french. in reality, it seemed like it had been built in the 70’s. maybe the haussmann buildings had been recently replaced by these modern ones or maybe we weren’t in the right place. it was not very exciting. we had lunch and then went to the “majorelle gardens” which were touted as the crown jewel of marrakech’s gardens. it too was extremely crowded. created by an artist called majorelle, and then owned by yves st laurent, it had among other things a dense bamboo forest and a cactus garden. it also had a beautiful courtyard restaurant/cafe. but it wasn’t fabulous. a little boring. i felt that the town was just trying to find more things for tourists to do. afterwards we took a cab out to the “palmeraie” to have a camel ride. i hadn’t actually understood what the palmeraie was. in fact, it is a very large open area outside of town, covered with palm trees. they are not dense enough to be called a forest but they were spread out enough so farmers could plant crops between them (artichoke, coriander, parsley). it was not a tended “garden”. though, apparently, it used to be a very dense palm forest until some sort of blight thinned it out. we wandered around the remaining palms for an hour, on dromedaries (oops, not camels). the guide gave us peeks into the land of the rich who built houses and walled gardens here. it had been a wonderful temperature all day, and now the sun was setting and it was starting to get cool. we went back to town to the central square and had a mint tea. then we decided to go back to the market stands for an early dinner of fried fish and vegetables. it was very fried... i get images of my arteries hardening when i eat like this. i watched the cook pour all the oil from his big fry pot into a tub. it was very dark brown. i thought he was going to change the oil and was impressed. then i realized that that was probably not what was going to happen. in fact, he washed the pot (probably clearing out lots of fried bits) and then of course, poured the oil back in. then he threw a couple of whole sweet peppers into it. i realized that even the veggies we ate were deep fried. after dinner, jj also wanted an ice cream, so we went to a place on our way home. i saw a couple of boys pulling the sleeve of a tourist as he ordered his ice cream. they put on very long sad faces. i guess they were trying to get him to buy them and ice cream. it didn’t work. we had read about marrakech, that young boys would hassle tourists to offer themselves as guides. i just finished reading a book about some australians who bought and restored a riad in fez (“a house in fez”, suzanna clarke). they said that a new law had been instated that forbade “false guides”, to discourage this practice. it was strictly enforced and a person could be thrown in jail if there was any suspicion of them doing this, including just walking with a tourist. if this is the case, it has really worked. there are no boys bugging tourists to be their guides. except for shop owners trying to have you come into their shop, we have generally not been hassled. we notice it and are appreciative. the current king, mohammed VI is doing an amazing job of encouraging tourism.

marrakech,day1

wandered around marrakech. went to the artisan “mall” to check out the wares. nice because it was fixed prices – no bargaining – a benchmark for what things should really cost. bought a beautiful purple leather overnight bag. p. understands my obsession for bags. i try to control it, but this one was such a bargain too! then we went to the “cyber” park across the street – so called because of the computers and internet available in the center. was beautiful and calm. palm trees. temperatures around 50.

we stopped back at the hotel to drop our purchases and then went for lunch overlooking the center square. then went into the souks, wandering, but heading towards museum cluster. tourists became sparse and we figured out we were off the beaten track. headed back to find the museum. there were 3 sites – the museum(an old mansion), the old school and the remains of a 12th century mosque. the old school and museum were restored by one man. they were elaborate and beautiful, with intricately carved wooden walls. saw a beautiful sunset from the souk (market streets). went back to the hotel and had mint tea on the roof terrace. then we decided to try the dinner offered here too. there were set tables in the covered courtyard next to the lobby. when we told the front desk we would like to eat in, they seemed almost surprised, and it took them a little bit of time to get someone to come wait on us. we ended up sitting in a sort of living room nook, a square room opening onto the courtyard, with the other 3 walls having 3 long couches along them – creating a “U” shape, with a low table inside. it was very decadent and luxurious. we want to make something like that in our dream house, someday... dinner was good, but by the time we were done, it was 10:30, so we decided to stay in.

birthday

today is my birthday and we spent the afternoon and evening in marrakech, morroco. yes!
last night, we had stayed with p’s brother and family outside of london. we got up early, took the train to the airport and flew to marrakech without incident. with all the crazy weather happening around us in paris and london in the last week, we have been so lucky in all our travels without any major delays. the temperature was in the 60’s when we arrived. we are watching the news right now and seeing the crazy amount of snow on the u.s. east coast. we are thrilled to be here!

anyway, we arrived at our “riad” – traditional house with courtyard – but in our case, boutique hotel – with only a small adventure. there was supposed to be someone from the hotel meeting us at the airport, but no one was there. so we took a cab, but the driver had to ask another driver how to go. he dropped us near enough to the hotel and passed us off onto another man who wheeled our luggage in a little cart to the hotel. i was a little uptight about it, but p. handled it all well. luckily we had a map, our riad was on a main street and we knew where we were. we didn’t have any adventures like the ones i read about, where tourists are dropped off in the medina and get lost before they even get to their hotel.

our hotel is new and very beautifully done and we are pleased. there is a nice terrace on the roof where we had our welcome tea. we went out to the medina (old town) and walked to the main square and then into the souks (small market roads). we did not get lost and arrived back to the square. it is so exciting to be in such a different culture! the women mostly wear head scarves and long caftans, though there are many women dressed in western wear. there are also lots of men in caftans.

we decided to eat at one of the market stalls. some offer barbecued meats, some offer fried seafood, some offer just hard boiled eggs and some offer calf heads. we picked one that offered a variety of food and we had fried calamari, grilled aubergines(eggplants), green peppers, mixed meat skewers and french fries. it was very tasty and total cost was around 15 euros/$20 for the three of us. we noticed that the man serving us would just grab the food from a big plate, with his hands, and put it our serving plates. i also wondered how they actually washed the dishes, since these were stalls set up in the middle of the square without running water... oh well, hope for the best...

in the square we did briefly see one snake charmer and there were lots of musicians and storytellers. we went to have ice cream in a cafe that said it was a “glaciere” and which had a big menu of ice cream on its front wall. but they didn’t have any ice cream, so we just had a mint tea. we came back to the hotel and were hanging out watching tv when there was knock on the door. our host, saladin was there with a birthday cake for me! a delicious strawberry tart with a candle in the middle. they were so sweet! they knew because they had collected our passports for our information. so i just had to write my blog to tell you about it!

boxing day

the english celebrate “boxing day” on the day after christmas. it is so called because it is the day you give presents (in boxes) to the servants... we packed up our bags and brought them to nick and linda's house(p’s brother and sister-in-law). it was also linda’s birthday. we had a nice meal (delicious roast beef) and hung out. we even ALL played a video game together. it was a horse racing game where you get to place bets and then watch and cheer the horse race. it was quite fun.

christmas eve torches

p’s request was to do nothing but hang out today. we went for a walk through the fields. it has snowed so much in england that we will have a white christmas. this is not normal at all for them. 

in the evening, we went to a town event. it was a torch parade, bonfire, and carols. they have been selling torches in the town hardware store for weeks in anticipation of this event. everyone met at the top of the town with their lit torches and walked down the main street, across the river and to a field. it was amazing. the street was quite long and it was packed full as far as you could see, with lit torches. it was also bizarre. i kept thinking of all the old monster movies when all the townspeople have torches and pitchforks to kill the monster. i was aware of the lack of pitchforks. also, as a good neurotic new yorker, it seemed extremely dangerous for all these people to be walking around with a big flame in their hands. it was bad enough with the little kids waving them around , but even the adults would be looking one way, and their flame would be leaning down the other way. this is in a very crowded street. in spite of these fears and being on high alert, it was really beautiful and felt very traditional. we finally arrived at the field without having gone up in flames, and there was a big bon fire which helped warm us, and a brass band accompanying our carols. we were handed a sheet with the words for the carols. it really was cold, and we left before it was all finished.

london

we had breakfast with a friend of p’s from school, katie, who has a 2 year old and a 6 month old. katie is a very fun, interesting and dynamic person. she is a beautiful, english woman who grew up in saudi arabia (her father being there for work). my favorite katie story is when, years ago, in london, her car was hit from behind. she got out and it was an arab guy who said there was no damage and he didn’t need to give her his number. she said, she wanted it anyway, in case there was some damage they could not see. he refused, but she insisted. finally, he started yelling and cursing at her in arabic, so she started yelling and cursing back at him in arabic. he was stunned. and then he not only wanted to give her his phone number, but he wanted HER number too. it was great to see her.

afterwards, we headed to see a play called “warhorse”. the tickets were a christmas present from p’s parents. it is a big hit in london apparently stephen spielberg has bought the rights and is going to make a movie of it. it is the story of a boy and horse that get pulled into world war 1. the amazing thing is that the horses in the play are life size puppets. they are minimal and you can see the puppeteers working them – two on the inside, one on the outside. they succeeded in giving the puppets perfect horse like movements and are totally convincing as characters. the story was a classic story in some ways, a child bonding with an animal, and their love carrying on through travails over time. it was really the presentation with the horses that made it beautiful and a marvel to watch, which makes me wonder how spielberg will translate it to film. after the play, we went up to p’s parent’s home outside of london.

eurostar to london

there’s been a lot of snow – much more than is normal and much of france has been stopped up because of it. since we don’t drive around and everything is within walking distance, we just haven’t been affected. as we approached the holidays though, there were all kinds of predictions of terrible weather to come. we heard that the eurostar to london had terrible delays. we were scheduled to take the eurostar to london on wed the 22nd and braced for delays. we lucked out again. by the time our day came, things were almost back to normal and our train was only an hour late all together. we laughed though, because we were sitting waiting to board. we were told that the 1:00 train would be late and board at 1:20 to leave at 1:35. at 1:10 there was an announcement, “eurostar is boarding NOW”. we barely got down to the platform from the waiting room, when another announcement said “the eurostar is closing its doors” and a whistle blew. EEEK! everyone hustled to get themselves aboard. we got to our seats and the train started moving. it was 1:15. it turned out that there were lots of empty seats – i said that it was the seats of all the people left back at the platform! if anyone had gone off to the bathroom they would’ve been left behind! it was a relatively quick trip. it really is amazing how fast we can get to london. it was noticeably uglier in london. the areas outside of london were grey and sad looking – piles of dirt in empty spaces. very grey and industrial looking. i had found a very reasonably priced hotel near “queensbury” and “bayswater” tube stop – called “the london house hotel”. we got a triple for L85 for the night. the hotel was very clean and modern. it was a good find. after checking in, we went out to a bookstore, and then to get dinner at a pub. the prices seemed more reasonable than i had remembered. perhaps we are getting used to the european prices. afterwards we went to get dessert. we wandered into a nearby mall and found a great gelato place. london has an amazingly diverse population. it seemed that we hardly saw any “traditional” english people. we barely heard any english spoken. the pub was quite mixed, but the mall seemed to be mostly people who wouldn’t be hanging out in the pub drinking, because of their religion.

doggy farm

got up and did not feel well. i had to take the dog up to the doggy farm/kennel, out in the countryside. we had decided to try this farm that was recommended to us. we are just doting doggy parents, and we thought he might like a vacation in the country while we had a vacation out of the country. each dog gets his own room with a little nook for his bed, with a radiator, and a private yard. jj was going to stay home but since i wasn’t sure how well i was, she came with me to help. we had to take the metro to the train station and the train out about 45 mins. the lady came to pick us up at the station, but was surprised to see jj. she said she only had room for one passenger. she showed us her car, which had the back seat set up for a dog – with a wire mesh dividing the car. i said jj could ride in back with maynard. she said ok, but she’d have to duck down if we saw a policeman. it had snowed a lot, and it was beautiful. it was a bit warmer today, so there was fog lifting off the snow. it was very WHITE. we could barely see the farm house from the road. we checked out the lodgings and then were driven back to the train station. i was indeed a bit ill and went home and slept and slept. meanwhile, jj had been working very hard on her christmas presents. her door was closed with a sign saying to “please knock and wait for permission to enter”. she also had decided to make use of her cooking course and make macaroons to bring over to her grandparents and aunt/uncle/cousins. i was a bit skeptical, since she had tried once unsuccessfully, and the recipe was quite vague and error filled.

we started making them together around 7pm, and ultimately, they did not work. we will go back to the cooking store to get corrections to the recipe and will try again in the future. meanwhile, i will go across the street to the new macaroon/chocolates store, and bring them instead.

les deux magots

slightly sleep deprived. french lesson this morning and then went to lunch with julia’s girl gang and their moms. we went to cafe “les deux magots”, in st. germain de pres area of town. the cafe “les deux magots” and cafe “flore”, next door are famous for being where artists like picasso and writers like sartre and simone de beauvoir hung out. they are also very touristy and expensive. normal coffee in paris is expensive to begin with – starting around 3 euros for a cafe creme. a cafe creme in cafe “les deux magots” was 12 euros. but the food is reasonably priced. a quiche and salad was 14 euros. the french mom said the food is better at les deux magots. anyway, i guess they adjust the price to make up for the tourists who just order coffee and hang out for hours. the french mom said you have to come and feel the spirits of the dead existentialists. i could only feel the spirits of the thousands of tourists. in fact, i was not feeling quite right at all – hope i’m not getting sick – we’re about to go away on a big travel holiday.

monet

lots of snow outside.

went to see the monet exhibit in the grand palais. huge exhibit. had to buy tickets far in advance and could only get them for this evening at 7:30. even with that, had to wait on line. was so extensive, that it was almost overwhelming. i actually liked much of his earlier work. his later work, that was explained that he did whenever he needed some money, felt a bit cheapened. still, his water lilies are really beautiful. the musee marmotan which has its own extensive monet collection, is doing a competing exhibit. want to go see that too.

for dinner, we went to the neighborhood, recommended indian restaurant. was good.

dinner party

had a dinner party tonight and everyone came in spite of major snow storm. virginie is a camera-woman that p. met on a trip to cuba many years ago. she is married to raoul from senegal and they have a daughter, cassandra, who is 10. they are interesting people. virginie does work for a travel channel. it’s especially great to see them because cassandra does not speak any english, so jj is forced to practice her french. even jj appreciates that. 

marie m. came over too. we haven’t seen her since she came for brunch a couple of months ago. she brought some champagne. p. went to the bistro across the street to get oysters. i made chinese food – fried marinated flank steak, shrimp in pepper sauce (without the hot pepper – from the time-life chinese cookbook – one of my favorites – easy to prep ahead of time and then cook at last minute), green beans, and rice. jj and p bought ice cream for dessert, from amorino, the fancy ice cream store. at first, i didn’t think that was special enough for dinner. in fact, it was fantastic and delicious! they got 3 flavors – “speculos” is a cinnamon cookie, coffee and mango. 

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Chinese [Deep Fried] Flank Steak

Sauce:     Combine following ingredients

3 Tbsp Soy Sauce

1 Tbsp Oyster Sauce

1 Tbsp Sherry or Mirin

1 tsp Sugar

1 ½ tsp Cornstarch

¼ tsp salt

1 egg

1 scallion

1 tsp Grated Ginger

Beef:

1 – 2 lbs Flank steak

Beat the steak with the back of a knife.  Cut into bite size pieces or 2.5” square approximately.  1 lb would make 4 -6 pieces.  Marinate the pieces in the sauce overnight.

Deep Fry or Pan fry in oil (high temp) 5 mins each side.

lots of korean food

third day of organizing the health care papers. was successful in getting all the papers i needed and sending them off. though of course, we are now heading into the christmas week and i think everyone has gone off on holiday. 

i went to a cheap little korean luncheonette, that had been recommended. i liked it.  i had a cold bibimbop.  it was cheap, good and healthy with all the veggies.  i actually was able to bring the dog in, and went for a walk afterwards with him.

p has been working very hard, and got delayed again in the evening to “put out a big fire”. i had wanted to bring us all to an indian restaurant for dinner, but since p was the one who liked indian food, it didn’t make much sense. jj insisted on korean food, so we went to a different korean restaurant. i tried to order something different in ordering a hot bibimbop, but in the end it was pretty similar to my lunch. oh well.

christmas windows

it snowed today.

i had ordered a book, created by one of the conversation group moms. she is danish, but had been living in london and then oxford for 20 years. she had put together a beautiful coffee table book on the seasons in oxford, that i thought would be a nice gift for p’s parents, who live there. jj came with me over to the author's house to have her sign the book.  since she lives very close to the big department stores, we went over to look at the holiday windows. the “printemps” windows were very fun, with little fairy type people preparing for a 19th century like feast. beautifully done, magically lit, fun little scenes with the characters running and jumping around. in contrast, the “galleries lafayette” windows felt brash and without subtlety. the las vegas of holiday windows, they had animated the commercial toys that were for sale for christmas. standard mass produced toys and dolls stiffly moving their arms or legs in a brightly lit, saturated color scheme.

anyway, it was fun seeing all the windows and it felt very christmasy with all the snow.

champagne morning

today’s conversation group was our holiday celebration. we had brought 4 bottles of champagne, even though here were only about 12 of us, and it was 9:30 in the morning. we didn’t actually get through all four bottles, though.

our hostess teaches violin and viola and played us a little concert on the viola. then the ladies were asking for christmas carols. she played one, but it seemed to be the harmony part, so (having had some champagne) i picked up the violin that was hanging on the stand. since it was just christmas carols, i knew the melodies and could mostly feel my way through them. it was really fun. i normally am shy about playing in front of people but this group felt very safe. i really enjoyed it.

just a pic

aix, day 2

we got up late and walked to the “pavillon de vendome”. this is an old mansion with a beautiful garden. it was built in the 17th century by the duke of vendome for his mistress. (actually, i’d call her his lover, since they were both already widowed when they were together). we had sandwiches, and then walked over to cezanne’s studio, which unfortunately, was closed. on our way out of town we stopped by an outdoor market called the “foire au santon”. we discovered that the “santon” are the little figurines typically made to elaborate the creche scenes. little houses, little people – bakers, farmers, etc, little farm animals. most were hand painted. jj happens to love these things. so she enjoyed looking at them all. i picked one of her favorites to put in her stocking for christmas. then we headed home on the train

day in aix

got into the apartment in aix last night around 11pm. this morning we went down to the main drag in aix to find a cafe for breakfast. my only requirement was that it had to be in the sun. it wasn’t easy because everyone else had the same idea, but finally we found a spot. the temperature was around 40-45, so it wasn't as warm as we had hoped. 
after breakfast, we strolled and did some shopping in the christmas markets – little shacks lined along the street selling gifts. they had very nice things.  amy had left in a hurry and had left some things in the apt. their friends deb and steve? came over to pick up some of those things to bring back with them at christmas. they were telling us about a dinner they had the night before at some friend’s house who used to be a gallery owner. they were describing this painting that seemed like graffiti, but apparently was worth 3 million dollars. i asked if it was a basquiat painting, and they were blown away, because, indeed it was. they were not familiar with him, but it seemed to fit the description. i actually loved hearing them rail about how something so crude could be worth so much. strangely, i found myself justifying it to them.

for dinner we went into town and found a little restaurant on a quiet square. was pretty good and reasonable for aix – which is normally as expensive as paris. the dinner started off quite well, with an attentive waiter, but as the evening continued we lost his attention. we ended up being in the restaurant for 3 hours, and longer than anyone around us. maybe it’s because they know we’re foreigners, or because jj sent her undercooked meat back. it drives p. crazy that it always takes so long for a meal.

more lunch

electrician came this morning to fix something and in keeping with the universal code of workmen, came at the last possible moment. he had promised to come at 8:30,but was delayed and didn’t come until 12:15 – when i had to leave at 12:30; but amazingly, he actually fixed our problem. 

i went to have lunch with miriam, a mom i had known when jj was in the french school in san francisco. she has just moved back to paris as well. we met at “le timbre” restaurant which means “postage stamp” which was apt, since it was a tiny restaurant. it has been getting a bit of a good name. it was very good and very reasonably priced. it is actually run by an englishman. scandalous!  

afterwards, i had to take maynard over to the dogsitters, since we are going to aix-en-provence for the weekend. amy and bob have left to go back to oakland, ca, and we are getting to use their apt. looking forward to slightly warmer weather. amazingly it only takes 3 hours to get down there by the TGV (very fast train). if we were driving, it would take 8 hours or so.

lunch at "la gitane"

had a lunch with 3 other moms. tried out another local restaurant called “la gitane” (the gypsy). it was very traditional french, serving things like kidneys, calves head, liver, etc. they did not have a fixed price menu which normally makes things a bit cheaper. plus, it took a long time to get through lunch. i think we were there for 2 hours. i wasn’t really excited by it and will probably not go back.

auditions

jj had 2 auditions this week on her violin. one for a holiday benefit concert hosted by the school and the other to join a youth orchestra. she did well in both. she will begin working with the orchestra in january. the first rehearsal for her will be a weekend away – with 3 rehearsals. her friend from school is also in the orchestra, so that will be fun for them.

potluck lunch

the moms group organizes social potlucks for parents. there are limited spaces and it gets full very quickly. i leaped on the invitation last month and got a place, and today was the day. it was hosted by a korean american woman who had lived in several countries with her family, before coming to paris. she had one of those classic, haussman era, beautiful huge apartments in the 16th arrondissement. it is the parisien mansion, with its high ceilings, large entryway with ceiling to floor stained glass windows, and huge living room decorated with beautiful modern paintings. it was a lunch, which felt a little weird, since it was basically a party for the adults while their kid were in school. in general, the potluck is an easy way of meeting more of the parent community. people easily introduce themselves and chat. i met a woman who is an art critic/writer for a prominent art magazine. (she recommended some galleries for me to visit). the food was great too. i have already signed up for the next one.

more health research

went running around trying to figure out more about the health care system.